A Data-Driven Approach To Precision Rifles, Optics & Gear
Home / Optics / Long-Range & Short-Range Hunting Scope Combo Setup

Long-Range & Short-Range Hunting Scope Combo Setup

Note: This post is about scope setups that can provide both long & short range capabilities. I also wrote a buyer’s guide for long-range scopes, which includes what features to look for and specific recommendations by price point.  You can find that here: Best Long-Range Scopes: Buyers Guide & Features To Look For.

Lots of people have asked me about what the best scope setup is for a long-range rifle that they plan to take hunting.  The problem with most long-range scopes is that it can be almost impossible to engage targets that pop-up at close ranges unexpectedly.  Nothing is more frustrating than bumping up a trophy animal at close range, and struggling to find them in your scope to take the shot.

My first tip, is to always start with your scope set on the lowest zoom power possible.  You virtually always have time to zoom into a long-distance target, but when a target pops up at close range you rarely have the luxury to adjust the zoom before you need to make the shot.  If you find yourself fumbling around with the zoom in that moment, chances are the opportunity will be gone before you get your gun up.  So as you are walking to your stand, or anytime you are stalking just go ahead and zoom out your scope to give you the widest possible view for those quick shots.

There are a couple other options for handling the combination of long-range and close-range shots with the same gun:

Option 1: Higher Priority Long-Range Shots, but Short-Range Capable

My personal favorite, is a setup with a quality long-range scope (in the 5-25x zoom range) with a reflex red-dot sight attached to it (such as the Burris FastFire, Trijicon RMRDr. Optics, or J-Point models).  This allows you to engage long-range targets with an ideal setup, but still dispatch short-range targets using the reflex sight instead of trying to find something in a scope that best-case scenario is still zoomed at 5x.  This is the approach used by many 3 gun competitors, who essentially have to engage targets at both long and short ranges in a single course of fire.  So it is a proven approach to this problem.

I was talking with Hans Spuhr about this at the 2013 Shot Show, and he showed me that if you mount the reflex sight at a 45 degree angle on the right side of the weapon (as shown in the first photo), you can simply rotate the weapon while keeping your normal cheek weld to get your line of sight inline with the reflex sight.  Some people prefer the red dot be directly above the scope, which keeps it more streamlined.  In that case you would just raise your head up slightly to view through the reflex sight … not as natural to get in the right position, but many shooters can make it work.

You can find quality mounts for this type of setup made by Spuhr (the coolest scope mount system on the planet) or LaRue.  If you are on a really tight budget, you can also just find a cheap $20 attachment off Amazon that mounts to your scope tube and essentially gives you a picatanny rail you can attach the red-dot to.

Spuhr Mount with Reflex Sight Mounted At 45 Degrees

Spuhr Mount with Reflex Sight Mounted Above Turrets

Larue Reflex Sight Mount

Option 2: High-Priority Short-Range Shots, but Long(er)-Range Capable

This setup doesn’t have the same long-range capabilities that a true long-range scope could provide, but it is another way people solve problem of transitioning from short to long range shooting.  The setup below is an EOTech HHS II setup with a flip-to-side 3x magnifer.  There is essentially a lever below the magnifier that when you push it will cause the magnifier to flip to the side in the blink of an eye.  You just reach up and move the magnifier back inline with the sight to go back to a magnified view.  This really is a setup primarily designed for short-range targets, but with some capability to engage targets that a 1x zoom (i.e. iron sight or reflex sight) setup couldn’t on it’s own.  There are third parties like Patriot Arms that offer 7x zoom magnifiers, instead of the standard 3x magnifier offered by EOTech.

EOTech holograph reflex sight with flip-to-side magnifer

Other options for this is the Trijicon ACOG 4x32mm with RMR Red Dot Sight or the Leupold Mark 4 HAMR 4x24mm with DeltaPoint.  These are similar concepts, but more of a cross between the EOTech and Option 1.  There isn’t a magnifier to flies in and out of place, but instead just a shorter range scout-style scope with a red dot on top … in a very compact package.

Trijicon ACOG with Red Dot SightLeupold Mark 4 HAMR 4x24mm with DeltaPoint

Option 3: RIDICULOUSLY HUGE Zoom Range … One Scope To Rule Them All

One other option is to go with a scope that has a zoom range into the lower numbers. Essentially iron sights or reflex sights are 1x, so if the scope goes down to 1x (i.e. no zoom) it should be fairly easy to find a target at short ranges. You could go with a “scout” or “patrol” style scope that have a 1-8x, or some of the new scopes coming out have a huge range such as 3-18x. Finding an animal in 3x zoom seems feasible, and 18x of zoom is also enough to engage most long-range targets (I’ve personally hit targets at 3/4 of a mile with an 18x scope).

The problem is the technology to pack that range into a scope is really new, and typically only found on very high-end, just released scopes. You will essentially be paying for the R&D that went into making the scope, so they are virtually all very pricey.  If you can make some compromise on the range (a couple numbers on the low end, or a few numbers on the high-end) … you can find similar options that are more affordable.

Here are a few examples of scopes related to this option:

About Cal

Cal Zant is the shooter/author behind PrecisionRifleBlog.com. Cal is a life-long learner, and loves to help others get into this sport he's so passionate about. His engineering background, unique data-driven approach, and ability to present technical and complex information in a unbiased and straight-forward fashion has quickly caught the attention of the industry. For more info on Cal, check out PrecisionRifleBlog.com/About.

Check Also

Best Long-Range Scope

Best Scope – What The Pros Use

I recently surveyed the top ranked shooters in both the Precision Rifle Series (PRS) and ...


  1. Awesome article. I am building a long range rifle which I also want to use for hunting and this info is just what I need. I like your first option, long range priority with a reflex option for closer range. What I have in mind – Remington 700 SPS Varmint .308 with a stocky stock laminated stock, Timmney trigger, entry level (under $1000) 5 x 25 or so scope, a bi-pod and now I’ll add a reflexive dot scope for closer range for hunting. Thanks for the info.

  2. Don’t forget the Nightforce NXS 2.5-10, but particularly the IOR Spartan 2-12.

    Cartridge power and target size have a lot to do with upper limit power selection. If you are shooting at 2 MOA out to 1000 yards… say 308win or equivalent, then 10x or that neighborhood is just fine.

    The real challenge is getting down to the low end in order to achieve the wide FOV. That being the case, regardless of advertised low-end power, the actual FOV at the low end should be understood before buying. For example, the SWFA SS 3-9 will tunnel around 4.5x… meaning although it advertises 3x, you’re not getting full optical FOV at that magnification.

    And don’t forget.. optical clarity and quality will allow you to use lower magnifications and smaller scopes to good effect.

  3. I am very confused by the illustrations given for “holding with the wind”, or however it is worded. You state to always hold on the horizontal axis/reticle In the direction (on the side) that the wind is coming FROM. But the example shows the wind blowing left to right, but the hold is on the RIGHT side of the crosshairs. Why wouldn’t the shooter hold on the LEFT side which would be into the wind?

    • I think you’re commenting on the wrong post … but you always want to hold into the wind. That means if you have a left to right wind, you hold to the left of the target. That means you want to point to the left of the bullseye, which is exactly what the diagram is showing. You will fire and the bullet will start out going directly to that spot the crosshairs are on, but then the wind will blow it to the right and you will hit the center of the bullseye … at least that’s the plan!

      Holding For Wind

      Hope this helps!

  4. Cal, I’m just getting back into shooting and plan on grasping long range target shooting (1000yrds) with both hand and I just wanted to say thank you for doing all the leg work for me, all the info in your 2 blog I’ve found invaluable.

    • Thanks, Greg. My #1 reason for putting in all the effort on this website is to help more people get into this sport that I’m so passionate about. I love it! Glad you found the content helpful.


  5. have you done any testing with the:

    S&B 1-8×24 PM II shortdot or shortdot CC
    US optics SR-8 1-8x27mm’s at all?

    I’ve heard that the SR-8’s have some bad aberration

  6. Hey Cal, for the RMR specifically would you recommend going with the 6.5MOA dot when it’s to be used as noted in the article? I noticed you linked to the RM02 specifically and was curious. As well what distance would you recommend zeroing the red dot optic to for use as a short range optic?

    • I’ve thought a lot about that lately. I’m about to buy one myself, and I think I’m going for the 3.25 MOA. It is really application dependent … but I think the mid-sized 3.25 MOA seems like it wouldn’t cover up the target as much as the 6.5 MOA dot. But, obviously some prefer the 6.5 or they wouldn’t make it! It probably just comes down to personal preference.

      I typically zero all my optics at 100 yards, but because of the use of this one … I’d probably zero it at 50 yards.


  7. Many of the long range shooters around here like the SightRon SIII 8X32 with the MOA reticle. For the money I also like the Vortex Viper PST SFP.

    • Thanks for the input, Ranger. I typically prefer a scope with at least 6x on the low-end (I think 5-25 is about my sweet spot), so the 8-32x scope is a little higher magnification than what I’d like to use. But that is all personal preference, and largely depends on your application. But, I know those scopes are pretty popular and that is probably for a good reason. Thanks again for the input.